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Day four of the Octave Sew Along is a big day! Today, we will be attaching our collars. The Octave Coat has two options, a shawl collar or an oversized hood option. I’ll be showing you how to sew the shawl collar today for photo purposes. The hood is exactly the same, when it comes to attaching it to the body of the coat.

Sewing a lined coat

If you are sewing a lined Octave Coat, today you will be constructing the hood and the collar. Follow the instructions on page. 9 for assembly. Be sure to take the time to press your seams open! It makes a big difference in the look and bulk of your seams. 

Also, be sure to finish your seams as you go, if you prefer to not have raw edges. You can use a zig zag stitch, overlock stitch, or a serger to do this.

After you have the collarl/hood constructed, you will attach the main collar/hood it to the front of your coat, right sides together.

The ends of your collar/hood will not meet the hem of your Octave Coat! Don’t worry! We will take care of the bottom tomorrow.

Sewing an unlined Octave Coat

If you are sewing the shawl collar option, you should have cut two sets of collars. You will have four pieces. You can do both from the main fabric, or if you like a contrasted look, you can cut one from the main fabric and one from another fabric, like a faux fur. You should have also cut one set of collar pieces from fusible interfacing. Iron your interfacing onto the back of one set of collars. If you are using a mid weight interfacing, you may want to trim back the seam allowance before ironing on. This will reduce the bulk at the seams.

Sew each set together by sewing the short ends together. You will have two collar pieces at this point. Now, match the markings from the collar up to the markings on the opening of your Octave Coat. Pin in place and sew along the outside edge and bottom as instructed on page 13. Then clip into your seam allowance around the curve. I like to use pinking sheers for this step. Also note that I did clip into the seam allowance where the curved edge meets the straight edge. It’s very important to clip there so your fabric will lay right at that angle.

Attach the collar/hood to the body of your Octave Coat. Not that the bottom of the collar/hood does not match the hem.

Note the hem. Also see how I have pressed the seam allowance towards the coat body all the way down to the coat hem.

To hem your unlined coat

Press the hem up 1 1/2″ so that it lines up with the bottom of the collar. Stitch in place.

Hem the sleeves up 1″ and you are done! Congratulations on sewing your Octave Coat!

Let’s sew with friends!

If you love sewing with friends, be sure to join our Facebook Event! There, you will be able to share your progress as you sew your Octave Coat, see what fabrics others are using, and even ask questions and encourage others! We we also be having a give away in our Facebook Group for those sewing the Octave Coat with me! One random winner will receive a $50 gift certificate to the Love Notions pattern shop (only valid on pdf patterns) and a $50 (£40) gift certificate to Minerva Crafts. You must sew a complete Octave Coat during the Sew Along to qualify.

Love my fabric?

This beautiful gray check suiting is from our sponsor Minerva Crafts. You can find it here on their site. Don’t forget to pick up some fabric for the soon to be released Glissando Pants while you are there!

Did you miss our Facebook Live video? Don’t worry, you can find it on our YouTube Channel!

Octave Sew Along Schedule

Monday: Fabrics, adjustments, cutting

Tuesday: Body assembly and pockets

Wednesday: Sewing sleeves

Thursday: Shawl/hood, hemming the unlined version

Friday: Lining assembly and finishing BONUS: How to add a zipper


Author Kelly

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