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Day three of the Octave Sew Along is pretty straight forward. Today, we will be sewing an attaching the sleeves of our coats. If you haven’t sewn a set in sleeve, you don’t want to miss today’s post!

Sewing a set in sleeve

If you began your sewing journey sewing knits, you are probably very familiar with sewing in a sleeve flat. That term may be new, but the technique probably isn’t. It is when you sew the shoulder seam of your top and then match the sleeve cap to the armscye of the top. Sew them together and then you sew the bottom of the sleeve and the side seam of the shirt in one seam from the hem of the sleeve, to the hem of the shirt. Sewing a set in sleeve is a little different.

First, we will sew up both the shoulder seams and side seams of your coat. Before sewing the bottom seam of the sleeve, sew two rows of basting stitches across the top of the sleeve cap. These stitches will be very helpful in easing the sleeve into the armscye, so don’t skip them!

After you have your sleeve constructed, it’s time to sew it into place! Turn your coat wrong side out. With the sleeve right side out, slide the sleeve into the coat matching up the marks on the sleeve and armscye.

Pin/clip in place at the markings. You may notice that the sleeve is a bit larger than the armscye. This is how it’s suppose to be! Use those basting stitches to make the sleeve cap match the armscye.

We aren’t gathering so much to make a gathered sleeve, it’s just a small amount so the sleeve cap fits into the hole of the armscye. Pin/clip the rest of the sleeve in place.

Now, sew the sleeve in place.

You may need to smooth the fabric out a bit as you go, you don’t want to be sewing gathers into your sleeve. After you sew the sleeve in place, you may notice that the seam allowance is a bit wavy looking. This is fine! Your seam line will be smooth.

See, no ruffles!

After you have your sleeves sewn on, you are all done for today! Tomorrow, we will be sewing the hood/shawl collars in place.

Are you loving the gorgeous fabric used in today’s post? This beauty is from our sponsor Minerva Crafts! They have so many gorgeous fabrics that are perfect for the Octave Coat!

Let’s sew with friends!

If you love sewing with friends, be sure to join our Facebook Event! There, you will be able to share your progress as you sew your Octave Coat, see what fabrics others are using, and even ask questions and encourage others! We we also be having a give away in our Facebook Group for those sewing the Octave Coat with me! One random winner will receive a $50 gift certificate to the Love Notions pattern shop (only valid on pdf patterns) and a $50 (£40) gift certificate to Minerva Crafts. You must sew a complete Octave Coat during the Sew Along to qualify.

Did you miss our Facebook live video? Don’t worry! You can still catch it on our YouTube Channel!

Octave Sew Along Schedule

Monday: Fabrics, adjustments, cutting

Tuesday: Body assembly and pockets

Wednesday: Sewing sleeves

Thursday: Shawl/hood, hemming the unlined version

Friday: Lining assembly and finishing BONUS: How to add a zipper