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How to create a Tessa Peekaboo Dress

The very best kind of hack is a hack that isn’t a hack! Adding a little peekaboo to your Tessa Sheath Dress doesn’t require any pattern modifications at all- you just have to think outside the lines a little. I discovered this secret pattern feature by accident last year because I was trying to do two things at once (scooped yoke) and it didn’t work out the way I meant- it worked out much, much better! I’m going to walk you through how to do this *on purpose* and I think you’re going to love how easy it is.

tessapeekaboo

First, prep your pieces

Cut the front and back yokes, sleeves or binding, and bateau neck binding. For the front pattern piece, cut at the yoke line near the shoulders, then bump down to follow the scoop neck. For the back, cut at the yoke line as drafted.

NOTE: I *really* like mashing the Sybil Pencil skirt with the Tessa bodice for a slimmer-fit dress; the featured dress here is sized down and mashed with the Sybil.

Back bodice cut along the yoke line

Front bodice cut along yoke line and scooped neck

To make the peekaboo, turn and hem the front neckline for only the scoop portion at 3/8″. If your fabric doesn’t press well, using narrow seam tape here is really helpful. Stitch this down with a zigzag stitch because we want it to retain a good amount of stretch. I apologize for using black fabric here! I always forget how hard it is to photograph well for tutorials.

Hem scooped neckline 3/8″

Now, attach the front yoke to the front bodice

There will be a gap in the center where the bodice neckline scoops down, so only stitch the sides where the yoke meets the bodice. Press the seam allowance up all the way across (including the gap section), and topstitch the whole seam. You can zigzag here again, but a slightly longer straight stitch has worked fine for me here.

Attach front yoke to front bodice, skipping the peekaboo gap

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Press seam allowance up and top-stitch across

And that’s it- you can assemble the rest of your dress according to the pattern instructions!

 

Ta-daaahhhhh!

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Lindsay

Author Lindsay

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Join the discussion 2 Comments

  • kim says:

    That looks great! I also tried to do this look a few years ago. This is a much cleaner way of doing it. Thanks for sharing!

  • wyualice says:

    What a beautiful dress of the Hong Kong skyline that your model is wearing! Both the cut of the dress and the fabric are outstanding. Would you mind sharing where to purchase this fabric?

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