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Here we are on day three of the Luna Loungewear Sew Along. Today I will be going over how to add the built in bra to the cami and nightie. I also have a hack to share today! It’s a gathered front detail that I added to the nightie. I adore how it turned out and I can’t wait to show you!

Sewing a Luna with a built in shelf bra

The built in bra is a great option to have if you like to have some gentle support and not have to hassle with another layer of clothing. It’s was also a must option for me when I was nursing my children. The built in bra was the perfect combination of comfort and support and allowed me to wear breast pads at night. I lived in these types of shirts during those years! You can even convert the straps of your Luna cami/nightie to be nursing friendly! Michele shared how to create a Luna with convertible straps. You can use the same instructions with the nursling clips from Surge Fabrics to create a nursing cami.

For the fabric of your shelf bra, you can use the same fabric as your cami is constructed from, or you can use a power mesh as shown if you want some more support.

Sewing the built in bra

Construct the side seams of both your bra and cami. Then slide the bra into the cami. The wrong side of the bra will be against the wrong side of the cami. Line up the side seams and necklines and baste into place along the neckline and armscye.

Now treating the bra and cami as one, attach your binding (or lingerie elastic or fold over elastic) to finish the neckline and create the straps.

We will handle adding the elastic to the bottom of the shelf bra on Friday, when we tackle hemming.

Fold Over Elastic Neckline

Fold over elastic is another option for the neckline and straps of the Luna. Yesterday, we went over how to sew the lingerie elastic and knit binding options. Today’s video will show you how to sew fold over elastic.

Gathered front nightie

Scrolling through Pinterest for ideas for hacks, I found this great gathered front cami. What a great hack! And it’s so easy to do!

Fold your fabric like you would to cut your cami/nightie out, but place your pattern several inches from the fold. the farther you place it, the more gathers you will have. I placed mine 3 1/2″ from the fold. Make sure it’s even.

Cut your fabric out and mark the center with a pin. I also marked where I wanted my gathers to start on each end of the neckline. I went with about 3″ from the ends. Baste two gathering rows of stitching inside the seam allowance. Now gather the fabric is that it is the same width as the original neckline. You want to make sure to keep that center marking pin in the center of your neckline as you gather.

Attach your binding to your neckline and complete the cami/nightie as instructed. You could also use fold over elastic to finish the neckline. Because of the bulk the gathers add, I don’t recommend using lingerie elastic or picot elastic for this step.

You can gather the front or the front and the back. I think if you gathered both, and added enough fabric to the fold, you can even use a light weight woven for this! You would still need knit or elastic for your neckline and straps.

Fabric for this was provided by Surge Fabric Shop. I used a pylos knit in coffee. Such a neat fabric! It looks like a woven, but it’s definitely a knit and perfect for this gathered front Luna!

That’s our stopping point for today.

Join me tomorrow for sewing the bottoms of our Luna Loungewear. I have a rouge side hem hack that adds a cute detail to the shorts or capris! Remember, you can join in our live videos in our Facebook group each day. Below you will find the video from today.

Luna Loungewear Sew Along Schedule

Monday: Fabric selection and blending sizes

Tuesday: Sewing the cami/nightie with lingerie elastic or knit binding straps and comfort band bralette hack

Wednesday: Sewing a cami/nightie with shelf bra and fold over elastic straps and gathered neckline hack

Thursday: Sewing the shorts/capris and ruche hem hack

Friday: Hemming the cami, nightie, and shorts and swim suit hack.

Pin this for later!

gathered neckline built in bra

luna sewalong



Author Kelly

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Join the discussion 5 Comments

  • Karen Strand says:

    Wow!!This technique of sewing fold over elastic in 2 steps is genius! I made a Luna with FOE and A) I sewed it in one step , and the fabric kept popping out and B) I used the 3-step zig zag which was a beast to rip out and re sew where it popped out. I’m off to make another Luna using what I have just learned. Thank you.

  • Terri says:

    I’ve never sewn the foldover elastic in 2 steps. I think I will from now on. I guess I’ve been lucky so far…lol
    I’m going to try the straps with c/l bands instead of the foe this time.
    I never thought to use powermesh for the built in bra!
    I have a c/l I’ll be using from scraps 🙂

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