My youngest sister Tessa has been my faithful model for the past couple of years. She helped me with the Olympia, Forte, Oakley, Allegro, Whistler, etc. Now that’s she expecting her third baby (and my ninth niece!) it was the perfect excuse to add a free maternity hack to the newest pattern, the Sonata Dress. I’m always so hesitant to work on a pattern when I can’t test it out myself so Tessa totally came through for me once again. Read on to find out more about this easy hack and get the FREE add-on!
The maternity version of the Sonata Dress uses the same size chart as the non-maternity version. The key to getting a good fit is to pick your size by your high bust. This is measured above the full bust, under the arms all the way around. Tessa has allowed me to share her pregnancy measurements so you can see first-hand how I chose her size.
Her high bust is 39.5″ which would put her in the size large. Her full bust is 42″ which would put her between a B and C cup (and remember, this is SEWING cup, NOT bra size). As with all Love Notions patterns, I recommend choosing the smaller size if you’re between sizes. That means Tess would be a B sewing cup. Next we need to look at waist. Tessa’s waist is 36″ (measured above her bump). Again, between a L & XL so we went with the L. Finally, we need to look at the hip measurement. If you’re pregnant this is probably where you’ll see the greatest change from your non-pregnant measurement. Tessa’s measure 49″.
To get the fit and proportions right you need to know how much ease (extra fabric) is intended with the design. For the maternity version you want 8-10″ of ease. This really makes picking her size easy, she’s still a size large in the hips. You can see more about how the Sonata was drafted and the ease included on page 6 of the pattern. To pick your size see the size chart below with the added finished hip measurement.
The Sonata Dress can be sewn with just about any woven fabric. From quilter’s cotton to rayon to linen to chambray and anything in between. I will say, for the maternity version, I would recommend a more flow-y woven such as 100% rayon, silk, challis, etc. The floral dress Tessa is wearing here is a 100% rayon from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. The fabric requirements are shown below. Please note that 44″ wide fabric can not accommodate the pockets on sizes large and up. If your fabric is 44″ just fold the pockets out the way when cutting the fabric.
Cutting & free pattern piece
Use this cutting table to print just the pieces you need. Click here to download the free maternity skirt add-on.
And now we get to the fun part! Follow steps 1 & 2 to sew the darts on the bodice front. Sew two lines of basting stitches across the top of the maternity skirt front. Be sure to leave long thread tails at the beginning and ending of the stitching. Pull those threads to gather the skirt to fit the front bodice.
Align the front bodice to the gathered skirt, right sides together. Distribute the gathers evenly, pin in place. Stitch/serge bodice to skirt. If you’re not using a serger, finish the raw edge with an overcast stitch. Press seam up.
And that’s it for the maternity mod! Continue on with step 4 in the pattern. Be sure to share your maternity Sonata Dress with us in the Pattern Support Group!