Hey friends! It’s Kelly here today, and we are going to talk about creating a muslin (click here to learn more about muslins) for the Sabrina Slims using our own specific sizes and shapes. We will go over how to measure, how to blend different sizes together and then we are going to cut out our patterns and fabrics. Are you ready? 🙂
Measuring yourself accurately is the first thing you have to do to get a good fit. Do NOT go by your ready to wear size. Always go by your measurements no matter what you are sewing. (This goes for sewing for your kids, also. 😉 ) The Sabrina Slims require four different measurements to start your path to the perfect fit, natural waist, hip, thigh and ankle inseam. It’s best to take your measurements with only your undergarments on. You won’t get a very accurate measurement if you measure over your clothes unless they are very fitting like I am wearing for this tutorial.
Click here to learn how to take measurements.
You are going to need a couple simple supplies for this; a piece of paper, a pencil and a tape measure. A mirror is a great bonus.
Let’s start with the natural waist measurement. This is NOT where you wear your pants. To find your natural waist, stand with your feet together and bend over to one side, where your waist bends and you see creases, this is your natural waist.
Take a tape measure and hold it around your natural waist, making certain it is level. It helps to do this in front of a mirror. Don’t pull super tight, but you don’t want any slack either. Pink dot is my belly button. Notice that my natural waist is NOT where my belly button is, it’s higher.
Next, let’s find the hip measurement. This is the fullest part around your hips and bum. Stand with your feet together and make sure the tape measure is level and not slack at all.
For your thigh measurement, you are going to stand with your fit just slightly apart and measure around the thickest part of your thigh. You may need somebody to help you get this measurement to get it accurate.
Your calf measurement is just like your thigh measurement, only down on your calf.
To measure your ankle inseam, start with the tape measure up where the crotch of the pants will hit and then measure straight down the inside of your leg to your ankle. Again, an extra set of hands would make getting this measurement much easier and more accurate.
Now print your pattern based off of the sizes that you measure into. If you have a waist that is a 12 and hips and calves that are a 10, select both of those sizes when you print. If you have size 6 hips, size 2 waist and size 4 calves, print all three sizes, you get the idea.
Once you have your pattern printed and taped together, you are going to blend the sizes that you need together. It isn’t nearly as scary or difficult as it sounds. Just take a pencil and draw a line connecting one size to the other in each area that you change sizes.
Now things are about to get real. And personal. These are my measurements.
These are ONLY numbers. My numbers. I wear a size 12 in most jeans from the store. Yet, I am sitting at a 16/18 for the Sabrinas. It’s only numbers. See why I said above to NOT go by your ready to wear (RTW) size? So, as you can see, I am a rather average American size.
So, I need to blend the size 16 hips with the 18 waist. Just draw a line from one size to the next on both the front and back pieces above where the hips are.
See, that wasn’t hard, was it? I only need it at the top part, you may need to start blending a bit lower for your shape.
Now, I need to blend from the size 16 hip out to the 18 thigh.
Again, pretty easy, huh. Now, I need a 16 for the calf, but, I am just going to cut an 18 and then shape the lower half of the pants to my leg.
This would also be the time that you make any other personal adjustments that you may need. Want to lower the rise, or add some length? Now is the time to do that. You can find these alterations in the pattern.
Once you have your pattern adjusted to your body, cut it out and then cut out your fabric. Be sure to have the stretch going the proper direction!! The pattern notes which direction the GRAIN is. This is perpendicular to the stretch of the fabric!! You want the stretch to wrap AROUND your body!
I am experimenting with my fabric. I’m using some light weight stretch broadcloth from Cali Fabrics in this gorgeous shade of green. I got a bit distracted by the color and didn’t pay very close attention to the type of fabric I ordered. Oooops! I’m crossing my fingers though and hoping these make for some great light weight pants for late spring and summer time. The item description for this fabric says that it has 10% stretch, but I found that it is closer to 25% which should be good for some Sabrina Slims! It’s a bit under the recommendation of 30%, but I’m feeling optimistic about it.
I am omitting the welt pockets because of how thin this fabric is. If you want welt pockets, be sure to cut them out along with your interfacing!
Feel free to ask any questions you have regarding how to blend sizes over in the Facebook group and share your fabrics that you have chosen. Tomorrow Tami is going to share those front pockets she told you about Monday and we will be sewing up the side seams and learning how to make some tweaks to the pants to really get a great custom fit.
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 1– Choosing fabric
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 2– Selecting your size to get a perfect fit
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 3– Pockets, construction & alterations
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 4– Waistband & hemming
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 5– Jogger hack
- Sabrina Slims Sewalong Day 6– Style inspiration
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Can’t wait to start my Sabrina’s! This will be my first attempt at pants and I’m super excited to learn how to get the fit right!!! That is the number one reason I have shied away from making pants! Your tutorials/sew along looks like the PERFECT way to start/learn about making pants! Thank you!!!
The QAKs are doing great!!! Loved the pictures and am surprised that Idaho has sand dun0e̷s; I remember watching storms gather themselves in Iowa –it is fierce some to watch. Glad it passed you by. Rest up and Ride on.
This will be my second pair. Looking forward to perfecting the fit AND trying out the front pockets!
I’m looking forward to sewing these pants. I was wondering if I go up one size in the thigh/calf area so the pants do not fit as close to the body do you think they will still look right? Hope this makes sense, I’m new to sewing pants. Thank you!
It honestly depends on the fabric you select. Stick around for the changes I make to the pattern on Friday for a slightly looser fit. 🙂
“I know that Asian guys (especially Koreans) have a particularly hard time being afe&tcionate.f#8221; My korean ex-bf of 4 and a half years was like that. In all the years that we were together he never gave me a pet name like babe or hunny or whatever. I called him yobo hehe (i learned that from watchin korean soaps) and he called me by my name. How boring is that? I don’t know the reason why korean guys tend to withold their emotions a lot but I’m assuming it has something to do with the culture? Anyhoots, thanks for the post! It was lovely.
I am trying to print out only my size. I go to layers, see a bunch of eyes. Uncheck all the ones that I don’t ned. Then when I go to print, it shows up as 74 pages. Also, my printer says Custom Scaling 100%. Is this right ?
You need to print the pages you need based on the style that you would like to sew. 74 pages is the entire pattern, both styles plus the tutorial. There is a print chart in the pattern on page 3. You do NOT want to select custom scaling, you want to select “actual size”. And be sure to print from the Adobe Reader PROGRAM, not the app.
I created jean shaped back pockets to hold my phone. Should I place them in the same position the welt pocket would be in?
Yes, line the top of your pocket up with the top mark of the welt pocket. I will add, though, that the welt pocket is awesome for a phone. I carry mine in it and it’s nice and snug.
I suppose I should try and learn the welt pocket. I will admit I am intimidated!
They are EASY! I am in love with welt pockets! LOVE them! Practice on a scrap of fabric first. But really, you will be surprised at how easy it is and you will be adding welt pockets to all the things!
Ok dimwit who comes to save the day1) If hes sick why is he kissing ANYONE? Right cus hes a douchebag and only cares about getting his rocks off.. aka perfect person to spread “root rot” or any other nasty inft2eionsc) The pics with Ashleigh Burns were NOT in a bar, infact it looks like a ritzy hotel bathroom or HER PARENTS HOUSE
Hi. It’s late but I’m hoping you see this tonight. I have to grade my hips (12) and thighs (14). Where do I know to start and end my grading? This is my first ever attempt at making anything more than a simple little top!! Thanks!
Hi, Andrea! There is a diagram on page 6 that explains where the different body points are on the pattern piece. If that doesn’t help you, I will be available to help in the morning. You just caught me before heading off to bed.